Pinot CountryCellars (15)

Phillip Jones planted at Leongatha in South Gippsland in 1979 and did not sell a bottle for twelve years.

DRC, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti

The Vosne-Romanée domaine that owns Romanée-Conti and La Tâche outright and holds pieces of Richebourg, Échezeaux, Grands Échezeaux, Romanée-Saint-Vivant and Montrachet.

Twenty-three hectares of mostly premier and grand cru Burgundy, farmed biodynamically since Lalou Bize-Leroy assembled the domaine in 1988 out of Charles Noëllat's holdings.

Beaune house founded in 1880, certified organic across its own vineyards from the 2009 vintage, and the family that took Burgundy's argument to Oregon in 1987.

A Beaune négociant founded in 1859, farming and buying across 270 hectares of Burgundy including Beaujolais crus, and bottling nothing that is not an appellation wine.

Bannockburn, Central Otago — schist, old gold workings, and a cellar that farms organically and biodynamically and bottles its blocks separately.

Vines on a lake terrace at Wanaka, biodynamic, with the Southern Alps behind them — the photograph that sells Central Otago, and a family that has farmed the slope since the nineteenth century.

David and Ginny Adelsheim bought 19 acres outside Newberg in 1971. He then spent decades on the committee work — the AVA petitions, the clone imports, the arguments about what Oregon should be allowed to call itself.

Founded in 1982 by Jim Clendenen and Adam Tolmach, and housed inside Bien Nacido since. Clendenen ran it alone from 1990 and made Santa Barbara pinot noir something people ordered by name.

Josh Jensen went looking for limestone in California because Burgundy grows on it, found a lime kiln site high on Mount Harlan in San Benito County, and planted pinot noir at 2,200 feet in 1975.

Burgundy's answer to the 1979 tasting: the Drouhin family bought land in the Dundee Hills in 1987 and built a gravity-flow winery into the slope, with Véronique Drouhin making the wine.

James Zellerbach planted two acres of pinot noir and four of chardonnay above Sonoma in 1953, then built a cellar copying Burgundy's methods — French oak, temperature control, inert gas.

Bill Blosser and Susan Sokol Blosser planted five acres of pinot noir into a former prune orchard in 1971 and made their first vintage in 1977. The estate has been certified organic since 2005.

David and Diana Lett planted the Willamette Valley's first pinot noir in 1965 and made their first vintage in 1970. They also made the first American pinot gris.

Burt Williams and Ed Selyem started in a Forestville garage in the early 1980s, bought fruit from Russian River growers and put the vineyard's name on the label.