Carolina Barbecue

a person · NCBum Dennis

also: Latham Dennis · Latham Wade 'Bum' Dennis

Latham Wade 'Bum' Dennis (June 12, 1937 – December 9, 2022) opened Bum's Restaurant in downtown Ayden in 1963 with his wife Shirley and cooked whole hogs over wood coals there for the rest of his working life, with a table of vegetables beside the barbecue that few eastern pits keep. He was of the Dennis family that counts Skilton Dennis's 1830 wagon as the start of the trade, and a kinsman of Pete Jones of the Skylight Inn. His son Larry, at the pit since he was nine, runs the restaurant.

The story Cited · web-ourstate-bums

His mother could not settle on a name for weeks, and people said a man without a name would grow up to be a bum; she named him Latham, and Bum stuck. He was born in Pitt County on June 12, 1937, finished Ayden High School in 1956 and joined the Navy that year. In 1963 he and Shirley opened the restaurant that carries his nickname; he cut the wood for the pits, opened for breakfast at 5:30 and closed at nine every day but Sunday. The family's barbecue, he and Larry told Rien Fertel for the Southern Foodways Alliance in December 2011, runs back through six generations of Dennises to the wagon of 1830. 'People have been cooking with wood for 500,000 years,' Larry told Our State. 'We just never stopped.' Bum's own account of the trade, as he gave it to Fertel: 'In this type restaurant business, what you got to do you got to love it and it's a way of life. You get up every morning and that's what you do.' When Daniel Wallace visited for Our State in 2014 Bum had retired but came in to serve breakfast around five, silver handlebar moustache and all, and Shirley sat at her table with her friend Hilda Worthington; Larry arrived at four to burn oak and pecan down to coals and did everything but kill the pig. Bum died at his home, Raven Hall, on December 9, 2022, at eighty-five.

Today Cited · web-tanner-bum-dennis-2022

Dead: December 9, 2022, at home in Ayden, aged eighty-five. Larry Dennis runs Bum's Restaurant at 566 East Third Street; the Dennis family's whole hog and vegetable table continue there.

Facts

rolepitmaster, founder, family
stateNC
stylesEastern North Carolina barbecue
regionEastern North Carolina, North Carolina
linksBum's Restaurant — SFA oral history (2011) · Bum's Restaurant — Our State (2014) · Rest in Peace, Latham 'Bum' Dennis — John Tanner's Barbecue Blog (2022)
confidencemedium · needs verification · updated 2026-09-15

Its kin

placesBum's Restaurantthe restaurant he and Shirley opened in 1963; his son Larry runs it.and of this page it says: its founder, at the pit from 1963 until his death in December 2022.peopleSkilton Dennisthe ancestor whose 1830 wagon he counted his barbecue back to when the Alliance asked.and of this page it says: his descendant, who gave the Southern Foodways Alliance the wagon and the date.peoplePete Joneshis kinsman of the same Dennis line, who opened the Skylight Inn in 1947, sixteen years before Bum's.and of this page it says: his kinsman across town, of the same Dennis line, who opened Bum's in 1963.placesSkylight Inn BBQthe other Ayden pit, a few blocks away, claiming the same root; Larry says his chop is coarser.stylesEastern North Carolina barbecuethe style, with a vegetable table beside it.the pitwhole hogthe cut, over oak and pecan coals his son burns down before dawn.organizationsSouthern Foodways Alliancerecorded him and Larry together at the restaurant on December 5, 2011.peopleRien Fertelinterviewed him for the Alliance in 2011.

Sources

Where it came from: Cited a source we name · Harvested pulled from an open dataset · Tradition what the tradition says, hedged · Inference this project's reasoning · Field somebody stood there. This record as JSON.

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