Carolina Barbecue

a wordhog

also: whole hog · hogg

A Carolina pit cooks a hog, not a pig — 'we cook whole hog', 'a hundred-and-twenty-pound hog' — and gives its size in dressed weight, the carcass with the innards out.

A dark, rough-coated hog stands alone on flat sandy ground with its snout down, rooting. The ground is bare but for tufts of coarse grass. On the horizon behind it are a shingled barn with a lean-to, a line of low scrub, and a beached hull lying on its side.
A dark, rough-coated hog stands alone on flat sandy ground with its snout down, rooting. The ground is bare but for tufts of coarse grass. On the horizon behind it are a shingled barn with a lean-to, a line of low scrub, and a beached hull lying on its side. — H. H. Brimley; State Archives of North Carolina, No known copyright restrictions

In Carolina barbecue speech the animal is a hog. Whole hog is the eastern North Carolina and Pee Dee style; a hog killing is the winter work of the farm; a hog's size is its dressed weight. American dictionaries make a hog a domesticated swine of 120 pounds or more raised for market and a pig the younger, smaller animal; the pit's small hogs of 80 to 120 pounds dressed sit at the bottom of that range. The pig pickin' hog is a barrow, a castrated male, or a gilt, a young female — boars and sows are too big.

Root. Old English hogg, implied in the late-12th-century hogaster and written hogge by the mid-14th century; origin uncertain — a Celtic source (Welsh hwch, Cornish hogh 'swine') is proposed, and the OED, quoted by etymonline, calls it improbable. The original sense was age, not species: a castrated male, or a swine reared for slaughter at about a year old; stockmen also said it of yearling sheep and horses
First seen. before 1100 (dictionary.com); hogaster late 12c., hogge mid-14c. (etymonline); 'go the whole hog' 1828, American English (etymonline)
Whole hog, 1828, is explained two ways in the Online Etymology Dictionary: the butcher's offer of the whole slaughtered animal at a discount rather than the choice bits, or — the entry leans this way — an allegory, in English from 1779 and in a poem by Cowper, of Muslim sophists who argued away the ban on pork one part at a time until the whole hog was exempt. Wiktionary's derivation from Old Norse hǫggva 'to cut', making the hog 'the cut one', is not in the Online Etymology Dictionary and is given here as folk. Cited · etymonline

The story Cited · etymonline

Hog is older than pig for the grown animal. Old English hogg meant a swine of a certain age — a castrated male, or one reared for slaughter at about a year; pig, until the fourteenth century, meant a young one. Dressed weight is the pit's unit: the weight after the organs, head and inedible parts are removed, about 72 per cent of live weight for a pig by Wikipedia's example. A pig pickin' hog is 80 to 120 pounds dressed; elsewhere hogs run to 300 pounds, but in the Carolinas small hogs cooked hot so the skin crisps and can be chopped in. Hog killing was the farm's winter work: NCpedia describes it beginning on the first frigid day of autumn or winter, neighbours gathering before dawn, as many as 100 hogs penned and fattened on gleaned peas, potatoes and corn, and the weeks after full of spare ribs, liver and sausage, the hams a month or two later. Tradition holds — the barbecue was what a hog killing or a church homecoming did with fresh meat before curing. 'Go the whole hog', American English of 1828, is the same animal as a figure of speech.

Facts

part of speechnoun
regionThe Carolinas, The American South
linkshog — Online Etymology Dictionary · Dressed weight — Wikipedia · NCpedia — Hog Killing
confidencehigh · updated 2026-09-15

Not to be confused with

Its kin

the pitwhole hogthe cut that is the whole animal; the phrase and the style share the word.and of this page it says: the animal, and the east's word for the carcass on the pit.the pithog killingthe winter farm work the word names: neighbours before dawn, scalding water, and the first frigid day.and of this page it says: the animal, penned and fattened for this day.stylesEastern North Carolina barbecuethe style whose answer to what barbecue is, is the hog, entire.stylesPee Dee whole-hog barbecuethe South Carolina region where whole hog over hardwood coals is the common style.eventspig pickin'the gathering named for pulling meat off the hog by hand; its hog is a barrow or gilt of 80 to 120 pounds dressed.dishespork skinsthe skin of the hog, fried; in the Pee Dee the hog is sometimes skinned before cooking and the skin fried.and of this page it says: the animal whose hide this is.disheshash and ricewhat the head and liver of the hog become in South Carolina.the pitpork shoulderthe cut the Piedmont takes instead of the hog.wordsbarbecuethe word that in the east means the hog after cooking.

Who points back

art · says of this pagethe pig that serves itselfthe animal, drawn as a person, which is the whole trick.art · says of this pagethe pig mascotthe animal, and the word a customer reads off the picture without being told.art · says of this pagePigs in the Citythe word the puns are built on, once per pig.art · says of this pageGoing the whole hog — the 1830s barbecue lithographsthe word doing the work in every one of these prints.

Pictures

Sources

Where it came from: Cited a source we name · Harvested pulled from an open dataset · Tradition what the tradition says, hedged · Inference this project's reasoning · Field somebody stood there. This record as JSON.

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