Pink Box

on the sideEgg roll

also: eggroll

Two for a dollar something, in the warmer by the register, and nobody explains why.

A cylindrical deep-fried roll in a thick wheat skin — shredded cabbage, chopped meat, sometimes shrimp — eaten with the fingers out of a cellophane packet of duck sauce. Despite the name it generally has no egg in it, though egg white sometimes seals the seam.

The story Cited · wp-egg-roll

The egg roll is American. It is distinct from mainland Chinese spring rolls and first appears in the United States in the early twentieth century. Andrew Coe, who wrote Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States, reckons the modern American egg roll was probably invented at a New York Chinese restaurant in the early 1930s by one of two chefs who each later claimed it: Lung Fong of Lung Fong's, or Henry Low of Port Arthur. Low's recipe, printed in the 1938 cookbook Cook at Home in Chinese, called for bamboo shoots, roast pork, shrimp, scallions, water chestnuts, salt, MSG, sugar, palm oil and pepper.

Why it is in a donut shop is a separate question with a plain answer: rent. Jolly Chan, who runs China Express and Donut in San Francisco, told KQED the combination "came out of necessity" — "we have to sell more stuff to make up the rent and the expense."

Today Cited · kqed-donuts-chinese

In Southern California a hot case beside the donuts holds egg rolls, and often chow mein and fried rice with them. The fryer was already on.

The particulars

coursesavory
regionSouthern California, Chinese America, The United States
confidencehigh · updated 2026-09-16

Who it runs with

stylesThe Southern California pink boxThe shop it shares a fryer with.and of this page it says: On the board beside the glazed, and on it for a reason.storiesWhy the egg rollsThe whole argument, told by the people running the shops.and of this page it says: The item that names the argument.dishesFried rice and chow meinWhat sits next to it in the warmer.and of this page it says: The other thing in the warmer.the kitchenThe kettleOne kettle, two menus.

Who talks about it

dishes · on this pageBreakfast burritoThe California answer to the same arithmetic.stories · on this pageThe counterCalifornia.

Where we got it

Where it came from: Cited a source we name · Harvested pulled from an open dataset · Tradition what the tradition says, hedged · Inference this project's reasoning · Field somebody stood there. This record as JSON.

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