a long oneThe counter

What a donut shop sells besides donuts, region by region, and what this project can show evidence for. Egg rolls in Southern California, klobasniky in Texas, breakfast burritos in New Mexico, bacon egg and cheese in New York, biscuits and gravy in the South, boba almost anywhere after 2015.

A shop carries a counter tag when a source says so: its own menu, a photograph of the board, or a press piece that names the item. The tag says which. A shop with no counter tag has not been read, which is a fact about this project and not about the shop.

The national map is coarser, and says which kind of evidence it is using. OpenStreetMap rows are tagged from what the map itself records — the shop's name and its cuisine tags — so a place called "Donut & Burrito" lands on the burrito layer because it says so on the sign.

— *Southern California and the Central Valley: egg rolls, chow mein, fried rice, croissant sandwiches. Cambodian-American and Chinese-American ownership, a hot case beside the donut case. — Texas: kolaches and klobasniky, from gas stations to dedicated shops, statewide and well past the Czech counties. — New Mexico, Arizona, west Texas: breakfast burritos, foil-wrapped, chile by name. — New York and New Jersey: bacon egg and cheese on a kaiser roll, mostly at delis and bodegas rather than donut shops. — The South: biscuits and gravy, and fried chicken in shops that lean that way. — Hawaii: malasadas as the main event, with the rest of the case around them. — Everywhere, lately*: boba, and Korean corn dogs beside mochi donuts.

It is not fusion and it is not a gimmick. It is a second sale to the same customer at the same hour, in a business whose own product stops selling by mid-morning. The shop owners say this plainly when anyone asks them.