Amulet Atlas

placesVia San Gregorio ArmenoVia San Gregorio Armeno

said VEE-a san gre-GO-ryo ar-MEH-no

also: the crib-makers' street · Naples nativity street

placeRome and ItalyItalyconfidence mediumneeds checking

A narrow street in the old centre of Naples, lined with workshops that make figures for the presepe, the Neapolitan nativity scene. Terracotta heads, wired limbs, cloth, cork and plaster; shepherds beside this year's footballers and politicians. Coral and silver horns hang in the same windows, because the trade that models a figure by hand is the trade that cuts a charm by hand.

cited

When

classical votive terracottas here; the nativity craft from the late 18th century to now still carried cited

PeriodGreek Neapolis to the present
How the date is knownart-historical — dated by style
Notefrom_year is a round marker for the classical temple of Ceres and the votive figurines made in workshops on this street; the presepe craft itself dates from the end of the 18th century.

Years are stored astronomically — 1 CE is 1, 1 BCE is 0, 500 BCE is −499 — and printed the way a reader says them. How these dates are made.

The story

The street is a stenoporos, one of the narrow cross-lanes of the Greek grid Neapolis was laid out on, running between the two main streets of the ancient city — today's Via dei Tribunali and Spaccanapoli — and crossing at the old agora.

The figures have a long root in the same ground. A temple of Ceres stood on this street in classical times, and citizens offered her small terracotta figurines made in the workshops nearby. The church of San Gregorio Armeno was founded around 930 on that temple's foundations. The Neapolitan nativity scene itself is much later, from the end of the 18th century. The workshops now run all year, with the main displays from early November to 6 January.

Naples is also a capital of the horn. The cornicello — curniciello in Neapolitan — is a twisted horn charm in gold, silver, bone, terracotta, plastic or red coral, worn against the malocchio and hung from rear-view mirrors, a custom the article traces back to protecting draught horses. Coral is the material that carries it, and coral is sacred to Venus.

Edward Lovett, the London folklorist, published a paper in 1909 called Amulets from Costers' Barrows in London, Rome, and Naples. He was reading three street trades as one subject, and this street is the one still working.

Inference — a lane whose craftsmen have modelled votive figures on the same ground for two thousand years is the clearest case in this atlas of a workshop outliving the religion it started in. Both halves of that sentence are cited; the joining of them is this project's.

cited

Now

Workshops produce figures year-round, traditional and topical. The heavy display season runs from early November to 6 January. No weekday is marked open or closed below: the shops set their own hours and no timetable is published for the street.

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Where

El Mercado de las BrujasThe BarkhorKhan el-KhaliliMerkatoMonastirakiFushimi Inari-taishaSensō-jiMercado de SonoraThe Marrakesh soukThamelMana Whenua, Te PapaMercado de Brujas de GamarraQuiapo ChurchInsa-dongTha Phrachan amulet marketAkodessawa fetish marketThe Grand BazaarRoom 1: Enlightenment, the British MuseumThe amulet and charm cases, Pitt Rivers MuseumThe Lovett charms at Wellcome CollectionThe Egyptian galleries, the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Via San Gregorio Armeno, Naples, Campania · 40.8503, 14.2577 precision: street harvested

Wikidata item Q630318 (via San Gregorio Armeno), coordinate location P625, queried 2026-09-16

Opening days

Nobody has published days this project could read. That is not the same as closed.

What is on record about it

What this is near

carriesCornicellothe horn this city cuts in coral and silver, hung in the same windows as the crib figuresmaterialRed coralthe material the horn is cut from, and the one Naples has worked longestmotifThe hornthe sign itself — southern Italy's substitute for the eye, aimed at the same lookkinCimarutathe other Neapolitan silver charm, a sprig of rue hung with signsartThe ex-voto wallwhat the classical version of this street's output ended on: figurines offered to Ceres, made next doortraditionEuropean folk apotropaic craftthe tradition these workshops supplypersonEdward Lovettthe folklorist who in 1909 read the barrow trade of London, Rome and Naples as one subjectparallelCatholic sacramentalsthe blessed objects sold a few doors from the horn, by the same hands

What names this one

Each in its own words, from its own page.

placeCimarutathe Naples street where charms of this kind are still cast and soldplaceCornicellothe Naples street where these are cast, carved and sold by the trayplaceThe bellthe Naples street a few minutes from the museum that holds these chimes, still selling small cast figuresplaceThe hornthe Naples street where it is sold by the hundred, beside the crib figuresplaceFired claythe Naples street that has been firing small figures since there was a temple to Ceres on it

Where this came from

Elsewhere

Record updated 2026-09-16. This record as JSON. Every field carries its own provenance; the tier chips above say which.

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